Days 7–9: Aqaba

After Wadi Rum - which was probably the place that made me happiest on the whole trip - we drove to Aqaba, a coastal city with access to the Red Sea. We stayed there for three nights, which meant two full days. Aqaba was perfect for regeneration after the exhausting days spent in the desert and in Petra.

We stayed at Laverda Hotel, which was nice and clean. Breakfast was nothing special, but at least it was included in the price, which we appreciated.

On our first day, we took a walk to Ayla. Ayla is a modern waterfront development built on the site of the ancient Islamic city of Ayla, which was an important trading hub in early Islamic history. Today, it’s designed as a luxury area with marinas, upscale restaurants, shops, and resorts. While it was interesting to see the marina and the overall layout, the place felt quite empty. I assume that COVID and the conflict in Israel have significantly affected the number of tourists coming to Jordan. In a way, this might actually be the best time to visit such a beautiful country. That said, the luxury-resort atmosphere of Ayla is not really our style of travel.

At the hotel, we were recommended to spend time at Berenice Beach Club (13 JOD entry fee). Later, we understood why. The public beach is mostly frequented by locals, with almost no tourists, and my wife wearing a bikini there might have felt inappropriate. We didn’t try it, but I think we would have felt quite uncomfortable.

Berenice Beach Club, on the other hand, was very nice. One day we chose a package with food included, which cost about 18 JOD in total - the entry fee plus the cheapest pizza on the menu (13 JOD just entry). The club has plenty of space, nice pools, and direct beach access, and it wasn’t overcrowded with tourists. We were told that entry is allowed only for couples and families, not groups of single men. Locals also visit Berenice, but again, mostly families, which created a relaxed and comfortable atmosphere.

While in Aqaba, we also visited the Aqaba Museum and Aqaba Fort, both located close to our hotel. I had read quite a few negative Google reviews saying there was “nothing to see,” but I actually enjoyed it. The museum provides interesting insights into the history of the Arab Revolt, and the fort itself was impressive, with many rooms and tunnels that you can explore.

We are not divers, so I can’t really comment on that, but Aqaba is well known for its diving and snorkelling spots, so it’s definitely a place to consider if that’s your interest. Unfortunately, I realized later that I don’t have many photos from Aqaba - which probably says something about the city itself 😄

When it comes to food, I can highly recommend Khubza & Seneya. We liked it so much that we went there two days in a row. The menu focuses on traditional Jordanian and Levantine dishes, served in a casual, local atmosphere. You’ll find freshly baked khubz (Arabic bread), flavorful mezze, hummus, mutabbal, falafel, and various meat dishes prepared in seneya-style trays, baked and served hot. The food felt authentic, well-seasoned, and very satisfying without being heavy, making it perfect after long days of sightseeing. Portions were generous, prices reasonable, and everything tasted fresh - which is probably why we kept coming back.

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